On the onset of winter, ice is likely to accumulate and freeze on your roof. This happens when warm air leaks from your home to the attic. It heats the upper surface and causes the snow to melt. Water then runs down the house to other areas of colder temperatures and gets to the edges of the surface. Since its cold, the water begins to freeze, forming ice. The ice builds up, thicken, and block the flow of water behind the shingles. With time this water is likely to leak in the roof and cause interior damage and a lot of mold growth at the same time.
To prevent this buildup, look into the construction frequently, and check on the ventilation of your attic. Many homeowners, however, are not in a position to have frequent checks of the homes. Installation of the roof heating cables, therefore, becomes a better idea.
The heat cables are extended electric chords. When plugged in the heat up. They aid in melting the snow and ice by creating a channel that leads to the flow of water from the shingles.
Types of roof heating cables
Self-regulating heat type. This type uses a conductive core. In colder weather, the core becomes conductive, increasing the wattage used responding to the colder temperatures. If you have an annual problem with iced am formation, this is an ideal solution. In a warm month, the wattage is reduced. This is the best option for roofs and gutter as it eats up even when the outside temperature is cold. Constant wattage cables. Uses the same wattage throughout. If you want to maintain the heat output, this is the ideal solution. Uses more power, therefore, must be used with a thermostat. It’s the best choice when you need to melt snow.
Measuring the heating cable
Before starting the installation, you must determine the length of cable you need. This is how you go about it:
Measure the length of your roofline. Get the depth of the eave overhang from the edge of the roof. Should the eave overhang by 12” deep, multiply the measurement by 4, if between 12”-24”, multiply by 5.3, if between 24” and 36”, and multiply by 6.8. Measure the length of each downspout. Measure the distance between the roof edge and where you start the heating cable. And the electrical outlet where you will plugin. Add all the dimensional, and you will get the length of the cable you require.
How to install the roof heat cables
Step 1: Application of shingle clips
In the installation of the roof heating cables, first, apply the shingle clips to your structure. This can be done as you start to form the bottom to the left or right corners of the surface. The clips can be well applied to the third or even the fourth row at least eight to twelve inches apart. As you move along the ladder, it is essential to use as many clips as you can.
Step 2: Running the heating cable
The roof heat cable ought to be run in a zigzag pattern. It crosses between the top and bottom shingle clips. The wire loops through the look on the top clips and can neb tightened either by pressing the hook or using pliers. The bottom clips loop the chord through the sides of the space, making it form a v’ shape. The bottom part should overhang the structure at least by two inches.
Step 3: Install the heat cables
Should you have enough cabling leftover, you can run it through the gutter. It is essential here as it helps melt the snow and once that forms in the trenches. At times it’s extremely cold to the extent that not all ice is dissolved in the roof; some might flow to the channels. Additional spacers or a double-sided hook can hang the length of the wire from the V portion into the gutter.
Step 4: Plug in the heating cable. After the installation of the heat cables into the property, plug the system to the ground fault once you have protected the outlet. Once you have followed all the procedures and your plugin, you should notice the starts to melt and fall.
The best time to install the roof heating cables is in the warmer months. This gives you time to test and ensure its working well. It also offers you a better working environment.